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Ode to the Rum & Tonic

June 22, 2017

Mount Gay XO rum and fever tree tonic

Rum and tonic.
   Gin you say?
     No, my dear. Not today.
       Barbados rum and tonic, please.
         Aged some years, ~80 degrees.
           Over ice in a highball glass.
             A nice dry tonic adds some class.
               Some lime as well, but just a squeeze.
                 Keep them coming and hold my keys.

Like my father and grandfather, I grew up around boats. You didn’t have to be rich to have access to one—they were just a way of life in New England. I used to teach kids how to sail at the local club and crewed for some of the racers there. Some skippers were really serious and some were quite casual, but after the races, one thing they all enjoyed was a good drink.

I was in high school at the time, so I couldn’t fully participate in the post-race celebrations, but I did notice their predilections. One curious beverage some of these sailors enjoyed stood out in a world dominated by the macro beers of the 1980s, and that was the rum and tonic.

The coolest among these sailors had red baseball caps from Mount Gay Rum. I later learned the only way to get one (at least back then) was to sail in the Round Barbados Race, a 70 mile circumnavigation of the island replete with tricky currents, shifting winds and some pretty big waves.

After a race like that, you need a drink to calm your nerves, and when Banks beer won’t cut it, many sailors in Barbados reach for a refreshing highball of rum and tonic. Mount Gay has long sponsored the race, so their Eclipse aged rum was often the most popular choice.

As it turns out, rum and tonic is indeed quite good for mental soothing. But it also manages to be extremely refreshing while demonstrating a depth and breadth of flavor not typically found in simple highballs.

Whereas gin cuts through tonic with a sharp juniper kick, a blended aged rum contributes loads of flavor while still managing to be nuanced. The tonic adds brightness, bitterness, and a bit of spice, so you could easily stop there and be quite satisfied. But depending on the tonic water you employ, a little additional citrus can provide much needed balance.

Aged rum and tonic might not sound great to you, but you’re just gonna have to trust me and the guys in the red caps on this one. As my old sailing buddy Alex said a few years ago, “It turns out those sailors were onto something”.

Rum and Tonic Recipe

Ingredients

  • 2 oz blended Barbadian rum (Mt. Gay Eclipse or Doorly’s 5-year are good choices. Try Mt. Gay XO or Doorly’s 12 if you really want to class it up.)
  • 4 oz tonic water (Fever Tree or other high quality, not-too-sweet variety)
  • Lime wedge (optional)

Method

  1. Fill a highball glass with cracked or cubed ice
  2. Pour rum over ice
  3. Add tonic water
  4. Squeeze lime wedge into glass and discard
  5. Gently stir to combine and top with additional ice as needed to fill the glass
  6. Enjoy!

Editor’s Notes:
1. After this article was published, a friend informed me that some Bajans refer to this drink as a “Slap in the Face”, as Chesterfield Browne described to a young Camper English back in 2009.
2. The original version of this article referred to rum from Barbados as “Bajan”. I have subsequently been reminded that the term “Bajan” is reserved for reference to the people of Barbados, while the term “Barbadian” is used for all other items.

Like rum from Barbados? Check out where it comes from! Read my distillery visit recaps here:

Foursquare Rum Distillery
Mount Gay Rum Distillery
Saint Nicholas Abbey Rum Distillery
West Indies Rum Distillery

For ten more easy rum drinks you can make at home, check out this article.

Two Laser dinghy racers in 1986

My buddy Alex (left) and me (right) racing Lasers in 1986 or so. (Starboard!)

 

Sustainability in Spirits Production

May 10, 2017

In a recent Facebook thread, sustainability in the spirits industry was the subject of a vigorous discussion. There were a lot of opinions about the “greenwashing” of the booze industry, and a general consensus that many brands and their ambassadors were promoting their products as sustainable, green, and eco-friendly, even in cases where that was not true.

The question of sustainability is a complicated one, and in order to truly know if a particular product is sustainable, you need to ask a ton of questions. We are essentially talking about a product that starts out as a plant and ends up in a cocktail, often thousands of miles away from where it was produced, so to say it’s complicated would be a massive understatement.

In the two images below, I’ve attempted to capture the relevant production steps where decisions are made that affect the environment. I have likely missed a few things in my haste, so please add your comments below, and I will release an edited version at a later date. Despite any omissions, the flow sheets should nevertheless help folks visualize the steps in the process of getting booze from the field to the barstool, and provide some food for thought.

Oh, and the next time you’re being pitched on a product’s environmental credentials, ask them about CO2 capture, anaerobic digestion, or how they process their spent wash or something. Their heads may very well explode!

Cheers,
Josh

(tap/click the images to enlarge)

how-green-is-your-distilled-spirit

how-green-is-your-distilled-spirit

PDF Version here (suitable for printing)

New Article: Almonds & Oranges: the Mai Tai’s Unsung Heroes

April 28, 2017

Aloha kakou!

Today I finally got around to publishing an article that’s been kicking around in my head for a long time. As you can probably tell from the title, it’s an exploration of the impact of orange Curaçao and orgeat on the classic 1944 Trader Vic’s Mai Tai. I know plenty of people who have strong opinions on the rum(s) they use in the drink, but far fewer are as passionate about the orange liqueur or almond syrup they use.

As for me, I’ve tried a lot of different combinations through the years, but I never did it methodically until now. So please join me as we try fifteen different Mai Tai permutations and see what really makes the drink sing.

-Josh

orange liqueurs and almond syrups for a Mai Tai

New Rum Review: Appleton Estate Joy Anniversary Blend

March 28, 2017

Howdy folks!

Sometimes a special bottle comes along and you wonder if the juice can live up to the price. I found myself asking that question of Appleton’s latest exclusive release, but I nevertheless took my first opportunity to procure a bottle. Joy Spence really knows how to make delicious rums, so an anniversary blend celebrating her two decades as Appleton Estate’s Master Blender would have to be amazing, right?

You can probably see where this is going, but if you’re after some unbiased tasting notes, read them here.

Cheers,
Josh

Appleton Estate Joy Anniversary Blend

New Rum review: Mount Gay 1703 Master Select

March 17, 2017

Aloha folks!

Today I am excited to share with you a review of a rum that is the successor to one of my “ah ha!” rums–one that made me develop a new appreciation for the category, and realize that there was more to rum than being round and supple. When I met with Mount Gay Master Blender Allen Smith on his most recent visit to California, I asked him if my beloved 1703 would be changed radically, and he assured me it was staying true to its original form.

“Would the blend include younger rums”, I asked? “No, if anything the blend skews older” Smith replied. Continued Smith, “It may be a bit more smooth”, to which I replied “You know ‘smooth’ can be a dirty word to many rum nerds, Allen” before we both shared a hearty laugh.

The thing about the first 1703 blend that made it so great was the fact that it managed to be round yet assertive–a tricky balance to strike. Would Allen be able to do it again?

Read the review here and find out!

Cheers,
Josh

Mount Gay 1703 Master Select

 

New Rum Review: Duncan Taylor DARSA 2007

January 19, 2017

Hey folks,

We’re back after a bit of a holiday hiatus, and this time with a review of a rum I never thought I’d taste: an independently-bottled, cask strength rum from the folks who make Zacapa. Guatemalan rums are known to be sweet and generally unavailable above 40% ABV, so imagine my surprise when I found this bottle at 52.3% at Master of Malt. It’s an interesting one!

So if you ever wondered what Zacapa might taste like without the added water and sugar, read the review here and you may be getting a glimpse of just that.

Cheers,
Josh

Duncan Taylor DARSA 2007

10 Easy Rum Drinks You Can Make Right Now

November 21, 2016

Ten Easy Rum Drinks You Can Make Right Now

Many people come to rum via tiki drinks, myself included. The genre displays rum’s diversity and dynamism in a way that inspires people to break the components down and understand their individual impacts.

For a few years, I dutifully worked through Beachbum Berry’s books and the Tiki+ app (now Total Tiki) making every tiki drink I could at least once, taking copious notes and learning. Some of the best drinks in the tiki pantheon involve multitudinous ingredients including fresh tropical juices and syrup preparations. They’re culinary in nature, and let’s face it, sometimes we just don’t feel like “cooking”.

Are you going to make a Missionary’s Downfall after a long day’s work and an hour’s worth of traffic? I think not.

So on the backside of my tiki drink exploration period, I began to drink fewer tiki drinks, opting instead for more neat rum pours at home. But a man cannot survive on rum alone so nowadays I mix in a few easy rum drinks to keep things interesting, and save the complex tiki drinks for my professional bartending friends who have to batch up the Don’s Mix and Perfect Purees anyway.

Thankfully,” simple” does not have to mean “boring” in this context. There are many fantastic rum-based drinks that will at once satisfy your desire for a quality libation while not taxing you mentally or physically. Here are ten simple rum drinks you can make at home right freakin’ now:

1) Rum Old Fashioned 

The Rum Old Fashioned typifies the concept we’re exploring here. Spirit, sugar, bitters, and water (ice) is the blueprint for some of our favorite drinks, and it’s with good reason. The synergistic combination is definitely more than the sum of its parts, especially when the right spirit and bitters are combined. For my rum OF’s, choosing a rum that doesn’t already have added sugar is a must. From there, I look for a bitters with a bold spice profile. Think of it as making a spiced rum for one.

Here’s one of my favorite combinations:

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Don Q Gran Añejo
  • ¼ oz simple syrup
  • 2 dashes Jerry Thomas’ Own Decanter Bitters
  • Orange twist

Method:

  • Add rum, sugar and bitters to an Old Fashioned (rocks) glass, then add one large ice cube and stir for 15 seconds. Express the orange twist over the glass, then run it lightly over the rim of the glass before discarding it.

 

2) Rum Manhattan

 I’m a huge fan of the classic Manhattan. Combine a complex vermouth like Carpano Antica and a dash of Angostura bitters with a great spicy rye whiskey, and you’ve got me (even better with a couple of Luxardo cherries!). The drink works with assertive Bourbons, but there needs to be a goodly dose of spice from the spirit to provide a proper counterpoint to the vermouth. Thus when we replace whiskey with rum, we need to be conscious not to pick a spirit that will be lost, and adjust proportions as needed. My preferred way to bump up the rum is to pick a spirit well above 40% ABV. If you don’t have a cask strength rum in your bar, pick a flavorful dry rum and change the proportions in the rum’s favor. Also, don’t stir quite as long—too much dilution will kill this drink rapidly. Here are two options that I enjoy:

Cask Strength Rum Manhattan

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Foursquare 2004
  • 1 oz Carpano Antica vermouth
  • 2 dashes Angostura bitters
  • 2 Luxardo cherries

Method:

  • Add all but cherries to a mixing glass, then add cracked ice and stir for 20 seconds. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with cherries.

 

40% ABV Rum Manhattan

  • Ingredients
  • 2 oz Appleton 12
  • ¾ oz Carpano Antica vermouth
  • 2 dashes Angostura bitters
  • 2 Luxardo cherries

Method:

  • Add all but cherries to a mixing glass, then add cracked ice and stir for 10-15 seconds. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with cherries.

Note: If you switch out the Angostura Aromatic Bitters for orange bitters, you have a Palmetto.

 

3) Rum Negroni 

 There is perhaps no clearer sign of our obsession with complex cocktails than the Negroni’s current ubiquity–it’s everywhere! And why not? The Negroni gives us gin’s punchy herbaceousness on one side with Campari’s bitterness on the other, while in the middle, sweet vermouth brings the two seemingly disparate elements together in perfect harmony. When we look to replace gin with rum, we need to use something that brings unique flavors that can stand up to the sweet and bitter elements. So in general, we want a dry rum with enough alcohol to punch through the Campari and vermouth, while giving us enough bottom end flavor to justify the switch. My first experience with this combination was Joaquin Simó’s “Kingston Negroni”, and it remains one of my favorites. His choice of rum is Smith & Cross (57% ABV) so it has no issues bursting through the sweet ingredients, while its uniquely “chewy” bottom end funk provides a grounding sensory experience that will stop you in your tracks.

 

Kingston Negroni (Joaquin Simó)

 Ingredients:

  • 1 oz Smith & Cross
  • 1 oz Sweet vermouth
  • 1 oz Campari
  • Orange twist

Method:

  • Add all but orange twist to a rocks glass and fill with ice cubes. Stir for 20-30 seconds, express the orange twist over the glass, run it along the rim of the glass and drop it in.

Note: If you find this or any other Negroni recipe too sweet, add a splash of soda water and give it a gentle stir.

 

4) Perfect Rum Martini

 When you feel you have far more white rum than you could possibly drink, you begin looking for alternative ways to use it. Many white spirits go quite well with vermouth, and fortunately for us, rum is no exception. I’ve never quite enjoyed rum with only dry or sweet vermouth, but used in equal parts (that’s what “perfect” means here) they provide a complex and balanced bass and mid-range, while the right light rum provides the treble. Here’s one of my favorite combinations:

Ingredients:

  • 2.5 oz Doorly’s white rum
  • ½ oz Dolin dry vermouth
  • ½ Dolin rouge vermouth

Method:

  • Stir all with cracked ice for 15 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

 

5) Daiquiri

Speaking of white rum, is there a more quintessential rum drink than the Daiquiri? It follows the blueprint of so many Caribbean rum drinks, combining nothing but rum, sugar, lime, and ice, yet the right one can be absolutely transcendent. With so few levers to pull on this drink, rum choice is key. “Smooth” white rums are out, as are those with added sugar (sorry, Bacardi Maestro). Here we need a dry rum with a bit of a bite. Also worthy of note is the ratio of lime to sugar. Depending on the lime you use, you may need to adjust the sweetness, so always straw-test your Daiquiris before serving them and adjust the sweetness as needed. Here’s a good place to start:

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Brugal Blanco
  • ¾ oz lime juice
  • ½ oz simple syrup

Method:

  • Pour rum, lime and sugar in a shaker tin with cracked ice and shake vigorously until a frost appears on the outside of the tin, then fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. A lime wheel garnish is nice, but optional.

 

6) ‘Ti Punch

 Another classic combination of rum, lime, and sugar is the ‘Ti Punch. Short for “petite punch” this single serving punch is THE drink of the French West Indies. As someone who recently tasted a boatload of these in rapid succession I can speak to their greatness, but again, choosing the right spirit here is of paramount importance. There are two other sticking points for the ‘Ti Punch, and while seemingly trivial to the casual observer, they can drastically affect the drink. We’re talking about the type of sugar, and whether or not to use ice.  For me, I prefer cane syrup over crystalline sugar—it’s easy to dissolve, and it’s got a rich flavor that’s hard to beat. As for the ice, I used to drink mine with ice, but I eventually “graduated” to the room temperature Ti Punch. Ice allows for dilution of course, but it also dulls the taste buds, so when you remove it from the equation, subtle nuances pop up that you may not have noticed otherwise. Here’s my favorite version, but feel free to sub in your favorite rhum agricole, be it blanc or aged:

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Damoiseau blanc 55% ABV
  • ¼ oz sirop de canne
  • 1 lime disc (cut the end off a lime, making sure to include a bit of the flesh)

Method:

  • Pour the rum and cane syrup into a small rocks glass. Squeeze the lime disk over the glass, and drop it in. Using a boi lele or barspoon, swizzle the mixture to combine. If you’d like to add ice, do so now.

Note: If you feel the lime disc doesn’t provide enough citrus, feel free to add another (or a squeeze of lime juice). 

 

7) Planter’s Punch

 Where I grew up, the Planter’s Punch was a sticky red mixture of cheap rum and fruit juice; it was sweet and artificial, but it got the job done. Since then, I’ve learned that the Planter’s Punch is actually a respectable drink that deserves a place alongside other rum-based classics. Like the Daiquiri and the ‘Ti Punch, a good Planter’s Punch requires the right rum to make it shine, and I myself am partial to really flavorful aged rums for this one. This drink is also a great basis for experimentation—the addition of bitters makes a profound impact, for example, and if you also add mint, you’ve got a Queen’s Park Swizzle. Here’s my go-to:

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Cadenhead’s Green Label Rum
  • 1 oz simple syrup
  • ¾ oz lime
  • Soda water

Method:

  • Pour the rum, lime juice, and simple syrup into a Collins glass, then fill the glass half-way with crushed ice. Use a bar spoon and swizzle the mixture briefly, add more crushed to fill the glass, top it with soda water, and gently stir to combine.

Note: If you can’t get your hands on Cadenhead’s Green Label, try an aged Jamaican rum like Appleton 12, or a combination of aged Jamaican rum and aged Demerara rum like El Dorado 12.

 

8) Rum Mule

Like with the Planter’s Punch, sometimes a fizzy highball is just what the doctor ordered, and it doesn’t get much easier than this one for a full-flavored fizzy rum conveyance. Rather than using a cheap “dark rum” like Gosling’s, true rum connoisseurs opt for a proper rum free of additives and questionable legal practices. Because we will be adding a sweet mixer to the rum, we need to use a flavorful, dry rum that will push through the ginger and the sugar and make itself known rather than simply fading into the background. A good choice for this is Appleton Signature Blend (formerly known as V/X). If you prefer a traditional “dark rum” I recommend Coruba Dark. Ginger beer selection here is also of great importance, but it’s even more subjective than the rum choice. I quite like Bundaberg, but those who find it too sweet will likely prefer Fever Tree. Reed’s also works well, as does any quality ginger beer, really.

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Appleton Signature Blend
  • Ginger Beer
  • Lime slice (quarter)

Method:

  • Fill a Collins glass with cracked ice, and pour in the rum. Top the glass with ginger beer, squeeze the lime into the glass and drop it in. Stir gently to combine.

Note: If ginger beer isn’t your thing, try a Rum Ting. Use an overproof white Jamaican rum like Rum Fire or J. Wray & Nephew, and Ting—the Jamaican grapefruit soda. 

 

9) Rum & Coco

 This is one of my all-time favorite ways to enjoy good rum. It’s just two ingredients built over ice, yet it’s utterly delightful: rum and coconut water. With such delicate flavors, balance is as easy to achieve as it is to destroy. You want a rum that has flavor, but is also super approachable. A little sweetness is fine from both the rum and the coconut water. I am partial to the Thai varieties of coconut water that come in a tall can. Conversely, Bacardi gold and Zico would be my definition of unbalanced, but this combination is anything but:

Ingredients:

  • 2 oz Plantation 5
  • 3 oz Thai coconut water (Parrot or any other Thai brand that comes in a tall can)

Method:

  • Build over cracked ice and stir gently to combine.

 

10) Hot Rum Toddy

While rum is often associated with cooling down in tropical climates, the noble spirit does a fantastic job of warming us up as well. If you’ve got a bit of rum, hot water, sugar and a lemon peel, you’ve got what you need to get you through even the most inhospitable winter. Many Hot Toddy recipes call for cloves or other embellishments, but this simple version will still cure what ails you:

Ingredients:

  • 1 ½ oz El Dorado 12
  • 2 tsp raw/Demerara/Turbinado sugar
  • 1 wide cut piece of lemon peel
  • Boiling water

Method:

  • Place the lemon peel and sugar in a tall glass mug (Irish coffee mug). Pour a bit of the boiling water in and gently stir to dissolve the sugar and liberate a bit of the lemon oil. Pour in the rum and top with boiling water.

Note: If you have some Allspice Dram handy, that’s a great way to take this drink to another level. Try ¼ oz to start.

 


So those are my top ten easy rum drinks. What are yours?

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